Prepare Your Car for Long‑Term Storage

Proper prep prevents costly damage. Use this step‑by‑step guide to store a vehicle for a month or longer— without ruining the engine, tires, or interior.

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General considerations & initial steps

  • Determine storage duration: A couple of weeks needs only light prep. For one month or longer, follow the full checklist. For a year+, additional steps—like fuel system draining—may apply and are beyond this guide.
  • Check your owner’s manual: Look for long‑term storage or “winterizing” procedures. Some cars include battery cut‑off switches or special modes.

Choose the right storage environment

Indoor units (best overall protection)
  • Why: Shields from weather, UV, hail, and vandalism.
  • Climate‑controlled: Ideal for newer or classic cars. Not all “climate” listings truly are—verify temperature/humidity. Keep batteries above freezing.
  • Flooring: Prefer sealed concrete. Avoid mud/grass. If you see moisture wicking (efflorescence), add a plastic moisture barrier.
  • Unit size guide:
    • 10×15 ft: Most compact cars and many sedans (~14.5 ft long).
    • 10×20 ft: Sedans, many SUVs (~16.5 ft), vans (~17 ft), pickups; some extra room.
    • 10×25 ft: Large pickups (~20 ft) and vans, plus gear.
Covered parking (roof only)

Budget‑friendlier; protects from sun and precipitation but not wind‑blown dust or pests.

Outdoor storage (most affordable, least protection)

Works in mild, dry climates and for oversized vehicles. Expect more sun, rain, and temperature swings.

Facility features to look for

  • Electronic gate access
  • Video surveillance
  • Extended access hours

Restrictions

Units typically allow operable vehicles only. No major repair work inside storage units.

Exterior preparation

  • Wash, decontaminate, and wax: Clean inside and out; consider a clay bar and wax layer. Dry thoroughly to avoid rust and mold.
  • Use a proper car cover:
    • Outdoors: choose a fitted, breathable, UV‑resistant cover.
    • Indoors: a lightweight dust cover is fine.
    • Always cover a clean car; avoid tarps; keep the cover off the ground to prevent trapped grit.
    • Covers don’t block pests from entering from below—use pest steps too.

Interior preparation

  • Deep clean: Vacuum and remove all food and personal items.
  • Moisture control: Place desiccant packs or moisture absorbers on the floor to prevent mildew.
  • Pest deterrents: Dryer sheets inside the cabin can repel odors/pests; consider mothballs around (not in) the vehicle. Avoid rodenticides.
  • Wiper care: Lift blades slightly with soft rags so they don’t fuse to the glass.

Under the hood & engine preparation

Fuel system
  • Add a fuel stabilizer and fill the tank to reduce oxidation and condensation.
  • Run the engine for ~5 minutes to circulate the stabilizer.
  • For 12+ months, some choose to drain fuel—this is complex and beyond this guide.
Fluids
  • Change oil and filter right before storage; top off coolant/antifreeze and other fluids.
Engine fogging (situational)

For older cars, very long storage, or harsh winters, fogging oil can protect cylinder walls. Do not fog direct‑injection engines.

Battery options
  • Disconnect/remove: Clean terminals; store battery indoors above freezing on a non‑conductive surface.
  • Trickle charger/maintainer: Keeps charge; connect positive first, then negative away from the post. Some cars must stay connected for computer memory.
  • Quick‑disconnect ground: Simple power isolation, but you’ll lose clock/settings.
Pest exclusion under‑hood
  • Cover intake openings and the exhaust with rags/steel wool to keep critters out.
  • Before the first start after storage—tap the body and check under the hood for animals.

Tires, brakes & suspension

  • Over‑inflate tires to the sidewall max (often 50–55 psi) to fight slow pressure loss. Reset to factory pressure before driving.
  • Prevent flat spots:
    • Best: Support the car on jack stands (flat concrete; follow model‑specific jack points). Some sources caution about long hanging suspension.
    • Good: Drive or roll the car every 1–2 weeks, ideally reaching highway speeds to warm fluids and charge the battery.
  • Parking brake: Don’t set it for long storage—pads can fuse or freeze.
  • Wheel chocks: Use chocks to keep the car from rolling.

Additional important tips

  • Insurance: For 6+ months, ask your insurer about reduced coverage options and local rules (some states require insured, registered vehicles).
  • Keys: Keep a labeled key set nearby or with a trusted contact. Consider liability if leaving keys with a facility.
  • Avoid weekly idling: Short idling invites moisture and acids—store correctly and leave it alone.
  • Manager communication: Ask facility staff for handouts/tips. Military‑focused locations sometimes offer photo check‑ins for deployed owners.

When it’s time to retrieve your car

  • Remove the cover carefully; take out wiper spacers and any intake/exhaust plugs.
  • Reset tire pressure to the door‑jamb spec.
  • For older engines, pre‑lube by pulling the coil wire and cranking until the oil light goes out.
  • Take a long shakedown drive to circulate fluids and verify brakes, steering, and charging system.

FAQs

How long can a car sit before damage occurs?

Within 2–4 weeks, batteries can discharge and tires may flat‑spot slightly. Use a maintainer and over‑inflate tires if past a month.

Should I start the car weekly?

No. Short idling creates condensation and doesn’t warm driveline fluids. Either drive it properly or leave it stored.

Is a tarp OK?

Skip tarps—they trap grit and rub paint. Use a breathable cover sized for your vehicle.

Ready to store your car?

Find nearby vehicle storage with climate‑controlled options and extended access hours.